The problem is not you! A fashion insider spills the beans.
Many of us end a shopping trip feeling deflated after spending hours trying on clothes that did not fit us. Perhaps the pants were too long, the shoulders too loose, the waist too tight, or even worse, the size we are accustomed to buying did not fit and we had to (gasp!) buy a size up!
The reason for this is simple: it‘s not made to fit YOU! Having worked as a designer for many fashion retailers, I can tell you with certainty that ready-to-wear clothes rarely fit anyone perfectly. Even the in-house model used to fit the clothes typically does not fit the specifications in every way. This is because, like you, he/she is a unique individual with their own equally unique body proportions.
Retailers of ready-to-wear use what they feel are the „average“ body proportions of their customers to reduce costs and complexity. It is this concept that has created the readily available, low priced, fast fashion that so many enjoy. The down-side is clothing that fits no-one perfectly, and people leaving the store frustrated at not fitting “the standard” size. Gone are the days when all apparel was made to measure and only Cinderella could fit her glass slipper!
Wearing clothes that fit your proportions is important- it radically changes how you feel about your own appearance and how you come across to others. A study even showed that business managers in made-to-measure suits were perceived more positively than others in off-the-peg suits (1.). It would seem that people unconsciously take how well your clothes fit into consideration! Here are a few savvy tips for people who want a perfectly proportioned look:
-Have a flexible concept of “size”
There is no governing body making sure all retailers use the same body measurements for a particular size label so these only provide a loose guideline. Garment measurements will vary between different brands, countries and fashion fits. Remember- the number or letter in the back of the garment does not define you! If the size that you are accustomed to buying does not fit, resist the temptation to squeeze yourself into something too small just for psychological reasons. It may sound counter-intuitive, but it will only make you look bigger if the clothes are too small. Aside from this, the discomfort and potential embarrassment of pulling, gaping and even splitting, will put you off wearing the garment. Rather cut out the size label if that little number bothers you!
-Nip-tuck your clothes, not yourself-
Buy up, tailor down. If a garment is too tight in a particular area while the rest fits well, purchase the next size up that fits that part well and get a tailor or dressmaker to take-in the garment where it is too loose. If the the hip fits but it is the the shoulder that is too roomy, then simply add shoulder shapers or shoulder pads from the haberdashery shop. Sleeve lengths and hemlines that are too long with make you look dwarfed- get these shortened. Many department stores and some high end boutiques offer this service. Don’t purchase anything that would require you to alter yourself by diet, exercise or wearing major control underwear – likely it should not be worn and will remain in the back of your wardrobe.
-Look for labels that do legs-
If leg length is your main concern, look for clothing labels with leg lengths. These are often indicated in inches in jeans e.g. 29/30 (waist 29 inches, leg 30 inches) or W:29 L:30. Save yourself time and ask the shop assistant to measure your inside leg measurement and find you the correct length.
-Find labels like you-
Look out for specialist shops and departments who make items for people more like you. Tall, petite and fuller figure labels can be rare in some locations. I suggest looking online if you are failing to find any near you. Some larger non-specialist retailers in your region might have such ranges or special lengths available only online. Cut and fit varies between labels so, if you your having no joy, try another brand.
-Less is more-
Invest in key pieces made especially for you by a Tailor or dressmaker. This is the ultimate solution, especially for those who have particularly unique proportions, or simply wish to enjoy the luxury of a perfect fit. This might cost more, but having fewer pieces that fit you well is infinitely better than a wardrobe bursting with garments that do you no favours.
-See a style professional-
Some styles and cuts will never look good on you, even when made-to-measure! It’s a good idea to get advice from a professional on which styles, cuts, lengths and fabrics will suit your body shape and which to avoid. Knowing whether to look out for a straighter or more shaped jacket can make all the difference to successful shopping. There are no wrong body shapes, just wrong clothes!
With a little well spent time and effort, it is possible to achieve your own perfectly proportioned look. Remember that it’s not you who should fit the clothes, but the clothes that should fit you.
Who wants to be “average” anyway?
About the Author
Faye Hofmann is qualified in Fashion Design and Colour Analysis and has worked as fashion designer, trends consultant and personal stylist. Since she started in the fashion world 20 years ago she has had much experience translating fashion trends into successful styles for large corporate retailers, boutiques and individuals. Currently based in central Switzerland, one of her of her greatest joys is using her expertise to help others look and feel good.
To learn more about what style can do for you, visit www. fayehofmann.com
1.HOWLETT, N., PINE, K. L. , ORAKÇıOĞLU, I., & FLETCHER B. (C) The influence of clothing on first impressions: Rapid and positive responses to minor changes in male attire. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 2013, 17 (1), 38-48. DOI 10.1108/13612021311305128
I feel so much better after reading this! Thank you Faye! I always thought that I must have an odd body shape, good to know it’s not just me!!
What a super article. I’ve been guilty of buying because of the size tag because I refuse to buy 1 size bigger and be labeled by that larger size. Having never had any item tailored before – I am suddenly googling tailors in my area. Thank you Faye!
Glad you found this helpful Chloe! After getting it tailored your could replace the (random) store label with a bespoke one that says “Size Chloe”- or “XG” (extra gorgeous)!
Your questions and comments are welcome!